($33, Enotec Imports, Inc):  Fanetti, one of the great names for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, has produced a fabulous 2015 Riserva from their Tenuta S. Agnese estate.  Traditionally framed, that is, not all gussied up with oak and over ripe fruit, the dark cherry-like fruit of Sangiovese shines.  Not an opulent wine, it is well-structured and penetrating.  Pleasingly firm tannins impart a good grip.  It has great vivacity, a characteristic often lacking in 2015 Tuscan wines, which amplifies its appeal.  A hint of gentle bitterness in the finish reinforces its stature.  It screams for food — grilled meat or game.  Engaging now, and certainly a joy to drink, bottle age will only add to its complexity, so there’s no rush.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021