($80, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): This 2018 Clos du Château de la Maltroye, a monopole of the Château de la Maltroye, is one of the best red wines from Chassagne-Montrachet I’ve ever had. It’s the epitome of power and grace. Savory elements complement gorgeous dark fruity ones. It has plenty of structure and vivacity, something not all wines have in 2018, but not a trace of aggressiveness in the tannins. It has great finesse, not a character I often find in the reds of Chassagne. It’s hard to resist its charms now, but its balance and my experience with the producer suggests that you will be amply rewarded by cellaring it for a decade.
96 Michael Apstein Jan 19, 2021