($65): Nicolas-Jay, a French-American collaboration that started in 2012, is producing superb Pinot Noir in Oregon. On the American side is music entrepreneur, Jay Boberg. Bringing the Burgundian perspective to the venture is super star Jean-Nicolas Méo, who currently heads the famed Méo-Camuzet estate in Vosne Romanée. Their Willamette Valley bottling comes from a variety of vineyards scattered throughout the valley from which they buy grapes. There’s a winsome Burgundian sensibility to their 2017, which combines lacey red fruit notes with savory ones. It has the hallmark of what I call “flavor without weight,” which makes Pinot Noir, especially this one, such an alluring wine. The tannins are very fine, lending support without harshness. A hint of sweetness in the finish reveals its New World origins. It would be a perfect choice for the Thanksgiving table.
93 Michael Apstein Nov 26, 2019