($41, Becky Wasserman & Co.):  Domaine Guiberteau is one of Saumur’s top producers.  As much as I hate to say it because it diminishes my role as a critic, I will:  It’s hard to go wrong just picking their wines blindly.  Their Clos de Guichaux, located within a stone’s throw of the hill of Brézé, the most revered portion of the appellation, has the same tuffeau (sandy limestone) soil that allows Chenin blanc to express itself clearly.  And similar to wines from Brézé, it displays a stone-y edginess that complements the subtle fruitiness of Chenin Blanc.  A long and penetrating zesty citrus finish amplifies its qualities.  I’d give this youthful wine a few more years to open, judging from the way it blossomed the next day.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 27, 2019