($33): The Momtazi family is not in a rush. In 1997, they purchased close to 500 acres — an abandoned wheat farm that had been free from chemical fertilizer since the beginning of that decade — and finally starting planting them in earnest two years later. It took them that long to prepare the earth by plowing and turning the soil repeatedly. Though not certified biodynamic or organic, by all measures they are both, eschewing the use of chemicals and pesticides. They use herbal teas to keep insects and disease at bay. Oh, and they hold back their wines until they think they’re ready. This 2012 Jamsheed, their current release, is. Savory and mineral-y, it’s sensational. A glossy texture and freshness just add to its appeal, which is immediately apparent.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 30, 2019