($37): The union of Morgon producers divided Morgon into six climats according to soil type about 50 years ago, according to Godard. Now, more and more producers there — and in Moulin-à-Vent as well — are putting these sites on labels. Consumers, be prepared to become familiar with names like Corcelette, Côte de Py, Grand Cras, Douby, Charmes, and Micouds on wines from Morgon. The soils and vineyards’ exposure differ from one climat to another, so it’s not a surprise that the wines are different. Take Godard’s Côte de Py, from Morgon’s most well-known climat. This Morgan, though powerful, has considerable elegance and great length. Its tannins are apparent, but supple and balanced by dark fruitiness and minerality. Give it a few years in the cellar or drink it now with a robust lamb stew.
94 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2018