($30):  This is classic example of how less is often more.  Weighing in at a modest 13.5% stated alcohol, this blend of Bordeaux grapes displays a panoply of black fruit and savory flavors.  There’s a hint of cassis-like notes and an olive-like nuance among others.  But what’s captivating is its glossy, but not soft, texture and enlivening acidity that keeps it fresh and you coming back for more.  A subtle bitterness in the finish reminds us that it’s perfect for offsetting the richness of beef.  Not a “powerhouse” or overdone kind of wine, it still packs plenty of punch.  It’s perfect for current consumption and a bargain to boot.
94 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2018