($28): There’s not a lot of Albariño, a white grape that makes an aromatic and energetic wine in Rías Baixas (an area in northwest Spain’s Galicia area), grown in California. Indeed, at last count (2013) there were just over 200 acres of the grape planted in the entire state. The grape likes cool damp climate, which is why it thrives in that corner of Spain, so Artesa’s decision to plant it in Carneros, the part of Napa and Sonoma Valleys that abuts San Pablo Bay makes sense. (It probably also helps that Artesa, which was formerly called Cordorníu Napa, is owned by a prestigious Spanish wine company, Codorníu Raventós.) With a lovely bite, Artesa’s 2014 Albariño has great aromatics and sufficient acidity to carry its hefty flavors. It’s great to see California wineries embracing this varietal, which has great potential. Try Artesa’s with robust seafood fare this summer. It will brighten the meal.
88 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2015