($60): Nickel & Nickel specializes in single vineyard wines — not as a marketing tool, but because the wines are different and unique.  Their two 2012 Merlots, sourced from Suscol Ranch and Harris Vineyard, show, in clear relief, the value of their approach.  The 9-acre Suscol Ranch is located south of the city of Napa, in a windy foggy and hence cooler area of Napa Valley, which gives the grapes a longer ripening period.  The wine grows enormously in the glass, so it’s one to open well in advance and aim to savor over a long meal.  Though ripe and plush, with silky tannins, it’s not in the “I’ll have a glass of Merlot” category because of its restrained power and alluring mineraly finish.  With air, it becomes extremely expressive with a mixture of earth, herbs and dark fruit.  Beautifully balanced, nothing sticks out — all the components fit snuggly.  It’s an explosive wine, but not overdone or in-your-face.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 21, 2015