($42): If all Merlot tasted like this one from Grgich Hills Estate, the varietal would not be lampooned but rather lionized.  This one manages to be plush and seductive without be flabby.  Indeed, its structure shows it’s serious wine, not to be confused with the “I’ll a glass of Merlot” category.  Savory nuances enhance its appeal.  It has the Grgich Hills Estate hallmark of suaveness and elegance, which I suspect comes, at least in part, from its modest — by today’s standards — 13.5%-stated alcohol.  It’s a delight to drink now, but, given Grgich Hills Estate’s track record, it will, undoubtedly, develop additional complexity with bottle age.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 21, 2015