($32): The Chardonnay — and the Pinot Noir for that matter — from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, the outpost of one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, both have the elegance and finesse of the mother ship. The 2012 Arthur, named after winemaker Véronique Drouhin’s son, is paradoxically lush and restrained. The delicate flavors of apple and citrus sneak up on you — they don’t hit you over the head — but they persist and fill your mouth. Mouth-cleansing acidity keeps you coming back for more…and more. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 11, 2014