($72): The Rutherford section of Napa Valley is rightly known to be an ideal place for Cabernet Sauvignon.  The line-up of wines from the Rutherford Dust Society — a group of producers who make wines from Rutherford grown fruit — shows the uniqueness of the region.  In this offering from Monticello Vineyards, intriguing herbal notes offset black ripe deep fruit flavors.  Lovely “dusty” tannins provide beautifully appropriate balance.  Not a fruit bomb, the wine has the structure and earth character you’d expect from world-class Cabernet Sauvignon.  Not surprising for a young wine, it blossoms with air as it sits in the glass.  A hint of bitterness in the lengthy finish brings a smile to your face.  The spice of oak is apparent at this stage, but given my experience with Monticello Vineyards’ wines, that component will become well integrated over time.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 31, 2013