($45):  James MacPhail runs a small winery that focuses on Pinot Noir.  He owns no vineyards, but that doesn’t prevent him from making top-notch wine.  He doesn’t make Burgundy.  He makes Pinot Noir that is a quintessential expression of California.  In this one from Anderson Valley, a captivating perfume is followed by beautifully intertwined earthy and red fruit flavors.  Not overblown, this expressive wine is enjoyable now, especially for those who love the exuberance of young Pinot Noir, but I suggest laying it down for a few years to let everything come together even more. 93 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012