($50, AP Wine Imports):  Founded by Serge Chastan in 1982, Domaine Lou Frejau, which means round pebbles after the stones found in the vineyards, produces this Châteauneuf-du-Pape from all of the eight permitted varieties of red grapes.  Their 2007 is certainly filled with ripe fruit flavors and spice, but also displays considerable elegance unlike many of the super concentrated southern Rhone wines from that year.  Polished tannins make it easy to recommend for hearty winter time fare now, but its overall harmony suggests it will develop nicely with another five to ten years of cellar, so there’s no rush. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2012