($19): Year in and year out, KJ does it.  Blending wine from grapes grown in Mendocino, Napa and Sonoma Counties, Kendall-Jackson walks the line between a sipping ‘aperitif’ Merlot and one with sufficient structure and stuffing to accompany food.  Accessible, upfront, cherry-like fruit makes it easy to drink a glass before dinner, but richness and good weight buttressed by supple tannins and good acidity makes it a fine choice with a meal. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 8, 2008