($18): Pinot Blanc can often be hollow and innocuous.  Ponzi’s is neither.  Concentrated and weighty–at least for Pinot Blanc–it has a lovely texture and nuances of pears.  Bright and balanced, it is a terrific aperitif wine that has enough stuffing to stand up to light first courses or simple sautéed white fish. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 25, 2008