($35): Ponzi’s non-reserve Chardonnay is sold only at the winery or via the website, so this one is the only one consumers will see in restaurants or in retail stores.  But when you see it, grab it.  Restrained–more in the ‘Burgundian’ rather than ‘California’ style of Chardonnay–Ponzi made a creamy and complex wine with nuances of minerality that should not be missed.  Layers of flavor–hints of lemons, tropical fruits and apples–persist into an exceptional finish and tantalize the taste buds.  Proving you can make great wine with purchased fruit, not all of the grapes for this masterpiece came from Ponzi’s vineyards.  Aging in older French oak barrels adds highlights instead of overwhelming the inherent flavors. Despite winemaking techniques, such as lees stirring and full malolactic fermentation, that have the potential to enhance a wine’s buttery notes and generally ‘beef-it-up,’ Ponzi’s Reserve Chardonnay remains remarkably balanced and not overdone. 95 Michael Apstein Mar 25, 2008