($22, Wildman): Jaboulet, one of the premier producers in the Rhône, makes noteworthy wines from a multiple of areas within the region.  Beaumes-de-Venise, a small village traditionally known more for its sweet wines than for its robust reds, had been lumped with other villages that comprised Côtes du Rhône for its red wines.  In 2005, officials recognized the potential of the village to produce distinctive red wines and its status was upgraded so now it stands with other appellations, such as Vacqueryas, Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, at the pinnacle of places for Rhône reds.  Jaboulet has infused this blend of Grenache and Syrah with uncommon grace and depth to match its spice and power.  A wonderfully warming winter wine, you can enjoy it now and since it’s still priced like a Côtes du Rhone, it’s a great buy. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 26, 2008