($16): Rasteau is one of the villages under Côtes du Rhone Villages appellation that is allowed to put its name on the label because it has the potential to make better and more distinctive wines than the average of villages within the legally delimited region. With this bottling, Perrin & Fils has fulfilled that potential.  A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, it has the expected depth and intensity of a wine from the southern Rhône Valley, but considerably more polish.  More complex than many from the southern Rhône, it has a welcome elegance and glossiness to complement its power, which makes it appealing now. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008