($12, Vineyard Brands): In addition to owning the famed Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Perrin family has a négociant business buying grapes and unfinished wines from growers–often neighbors–in the southern Rhone Valley and selling the finished wine under the Perrin & Fils label.  This robust red, made from equal parts Grenache and Syrah, has an intriguing earthy quality reminiscent of Mourvedre.  Despite fine tannins, its succulent fruit and depth make it better suited for winter casseroles than as a before-dinner drink. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008