($22, Vineyard Brands): Vacqueyras is a village in the southern Rhône Valley, formerly under the Côtes du Rhône Villages umbrella, that has convinced authorities that it makes more distinctive wines than the southern Rhône norm and should have its own appellation.  Despite precisely the same blend (Grenache, 80% and Syrah, 20%) as the Perrin Rasteau and the same winemaking team, this is a much more refined and complex wine. Very aromatic and herbal, it has finer-sweeter–tannins than the Rasteau, which start to melt away with a half hour of aeration. It is amazing how the same blend, done by the same winemaking team, can be so different.  Tasting these wines side-by-side is a wonderful treat for anyone who wants to see why the French insist on naming wines by reference to place rather than grape variety. 91 Michael Apstein Apr 17, 2007