($8): Confusingly, the Two Vines designation refers–not the blend of grapes–but to the trellising system they use. I actually preferred this to a more expensive bottling that showed the effect of oak more prominently. With this wine, there is only a hint of oak, which means that the primary red fruit flavors are the focus. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – Washington
Château St. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($16): Less pungent than many Sauvignon Blancs, this distinctive wine has a subtle roundness without losing the refreshing edginess and herbal bite characteristic of the varietal. Its fullness and mouth coating texture gives it a big step up from their regular bottling.… Read more
Château Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay 2006
($15): Château Ste. Michelle, one of Washington’s best producers, has fashioned a unique Chardonnay that reflects the cooler climate of the Columbia Valley. Green apple nuances, rather than tropical fruit flavors, blend nicely with a subtle toastiness, making this a more restrained style of Chardonnay. … Read more
Col Solare, Columbia Valley (Washington) 2004
($65): The first vintage of Col Solare, a joint venture between Tuscany’s Piero Antinori and Washington State’s Château Ste. Michelle Winery, was 1995. That wine, tasted recently, had developed beautifully revealing floral notes and an engaging minerality. The 2004, a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and three percent Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, has potential to follow in the 95’s footsteps. … Read more
DiStefano, Columbia Valley (Washington) Meritage 2004
($28): Smooth and polished, with dark berry fruit flavors enhanced by echoes of coffee, chocolate, and sweet vanilla-laced oak, this is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Franc. Its firm tannins provide a well-defined structure but do not seem excessively astringent, suggesting that the wine should age gracefully.… Read more
Columbia Winery, Yakima Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Wyckoff Vineyard 2004
($20): Despite being barrel fermented and undergoing malolactic fermentation, this Chardonnay is not in-your-face, but rather has a beautiful balance of fruit and oak. Bright vibrant acidity keeps it lively. A relatively low–at least these days–13.5% alcohol helps explain its character and appeal.… Read more
Hogue Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
($11): An extraordinary value, Hogue Cellars’ 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon has grace and finesse rarely seen at this price. Fine, polished tannins support, but don’t overwhelm, the bright black cherry fruit flavors and nuances of herbs and smoke. A simple wine at first blush, the flavors expand and the complexity becomes apparent over time as the wine sits in the glass.… Read more
Spring Valley Vineyard, Walla Walla (Washington) “Uriah Red” 2003
($50): A brilliant blend of mostly Merlot (77%) and Cabernet Franc, it conveys an extraordinary balance of black fruit flavors and chocolate nuances wrapped in velvety tannins. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006… Read more
Covey Run, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet/Merlot 2003
($8): Consumers looking for a super-ripe wine should avoid this one. But those seeking a balanced combination of ripe cherries and slight earthiness will marvel at the complexity-and the price-of this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006… Read more
Genesis by Hogue, Columbia Valley (Washington) 2002
($16): This Syrah emphasizes the thick black plum character of Syrah rather than the beefy style. The pure fruit character shines in this well-balanced, polished wine. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006… Read more
L’Ecole No. 41, Walla Walla (Washington) Pepper Bridge Vineyard Red Blend “Apogee” 2003
($45): Marty Clubb makes two wines, Apogee and Perigee, meant to mirror each other as expressions of two of the best known vineyards in Walla Walla, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills. The latter tends toward a feminine, floral brightness underlined by an earth core; the former is usually has much deeper structure and a darker fruit profile.… Read more