Elvio Cogno, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Nascetta “Anas-Cëtta” 2022 ($32 Wilson Daniels)

Nascetta, historically found only in the Novello commune, is Piedmont’s only autochthonous white grape. The wine is having a revival due, in major part, to Cogno’s role in saving the grape from extinction. Unsurprisingly, they are a leading producer of this captivating white. Cogno manages to achieve a hint more weight than many without losing any of its invigorating ginger-like spice and refinement. Its balance and texture make this brisk white a must-buy. Racy enough to be enjoyed as a stand-alone aperitivo, Cogno’s Nascetta also has sufficient oomph to stand up with grilled swordfish.
95 Michael Apstein – April 23, 2025