($30, Taub Family Selections): Made using the Metodo Classico (classic method, a.k.a. Champagne method), this Prosecco is, like few — if any — others.  With the classic method, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, a labor-intensive and expensive proposition.  But the results are worth it because the wine develops additional complexity from the yeast and aging.  In contrast, the usual process for making Prosecco, the Charmant method, involves performing the secondary fermentation in a large stainless steel tank.  The Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore designation mandates that the grapes (the variety is Glera) come from the best sites on the hillsides of Valdobbiadene.  Unsurprisingly, then, this trio of a top producer, Valdo, using top quality grapes, and a classical method results in a delectable sparkling wine.  It conveys the delicate fruity — peach-like — character of Prosecco with a serious complexity of subtle notes of yeastiness and brioche.  A fine spine of acidity holds it all together.  Thirty bucks is expensive for most Prosecco.  But this is not like most Prosecco.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2022