($20, Arano LLC): The Cava category, Spain’s unique sparkling wine, has several levels. One level below the pinnacle is Gran Reserva, a wine that must see at least 30 months of aging on the lees. Goulart doubles that and then adds another 12 months for good measure. A blend of Chardonnay (38%), Xarel-lo (25%), Macabeo (20%) and Parellada, it displays uncommon gracefulness plus alluring minerality. This very sophisticated wine is complete and balanced, with a fabulous spine of acidity that keeps it fresh. A great bargain!
94 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2022