($15, Evaton Inc):  One of the delightful aspects about Rioja is the tradition of making Reserva wines by aging them before release.  This practice gives the consumer an opportunity to taste the magical transformation of a simple fruit-driven young wine to one that displays a complexity array of savory nuances and non-fruit flavors.  Plus, you needn’t spend a fortune or invest in a personal cellar.  This one, from Montecillo, a star Rioja producer, is an excellent example.  A Tempranillo-dominant blend (90 percent) with Garnarcha and Mazuelo comprising the rest, it delivers an alluring combination of fresh red fruit flavors, spice, and mature, leathery-like nuances.  This mid-weight gem has uplifting acidity that keeps it fresh throughout a meal.  Ahem, note the price.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 11, 2022