($19):  Although only started in 2000, the family-run Fondo Antico, has a long connection with grapes as a grower for Marsala.  They have about 200 acres of vineyards on the western side of the island where they grow both autochthonous varieties, such as Grillo, and so-called international grapes.  Grillo, which in Sicilian dialect means cricket, is a semi-aromatic grape whose charms can be difficult to capture in the wine.  Fondo Antico succeeds, combing a delicate peachy quality and a cutting saline-like mineral aspect.  A clean and refreshing wine, it demands seafood, such as a linguine and clam sauce.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 30, 2021