($24): Jean-Marc Brocard, one of my favorite producers in Chablis, consistently makes a stunning array of wines. I can’t remember a wine from them that failed to impress. The family-run estate farms organically and shuns the use of new oak barrels because they want to emphasize the character the site imparts to the grapes. This one, a “simple” village Chablis, is outstanding — not simple at all. You can almost taste the limestone it’s so mineral-y and cutting. There’s real depth here, which is why it stands apart from so many other village Chablis wines and is more engaging than many producers’ premier crus. It’s a bargain for what it delivers. A delight to drink now, this wine will be perfect for summer seafood, so stock up. You and your guests will be pleased. There’s a case in my cellar.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 2, 2021