($96, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Château de la Maltroye, a consistently reliable producer of both red and white wines, succeeded admirably in 2018. This white, from their monopole, exhibits the broader and weightier minerality characteristic of Chassagne, compared to Puligny. Good acidity balances and amplifies its charms. When I tasted it in Burgundy in 2019 just after it had been bottled, I scored it highly. Now, as a hint of lava-like earthiness emerges and adds to its considerable appeal, I like it even more. Drink now, or cellar for a few years.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 9, 2021