($87, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  Charles Heidsieck is a name to remember when buying Champagne.  For some bizarre reason, it seems to receive less buzz than many of the other major houses.  But that is changing under the Descours family ownership since 2011.  Four years on the lees (the back label notes it was laid down in 2013 and disgorged in 2017) and inclusion of 20 percent reserve wine that averages a decade of age helps explain the wow factor this rosé presents.  Both powerful and elegant, it displays wild strawberry-like flavors buttressed by a strong spine.  The long and graceful wine is perfect as an aperitif.  But it is also a show-stopper with the meal.
95 Michael Apstein Dec 1, 2020