($39, Seaview Imports):  The Mâconnais is becoming to “go-to” place for affordable white Burgundy.  The region has three tiers, which, in ascending order of prestige, are Macon, Macon-Villages, and, at the top, Macon with the name of a village, such as Cruzille, appended to it.  The area has seen an influx of top Burgundy producers and the quality of the white wines has sky rocketed, especially those coming from the 27 villages allowed to attach their name.  This is an area to know for straight forward Chardonnay-based white wines, such as this one, that remain under-valued.  This single-vineyard bottling from the Domaine du Château de Messey is both creamy and stoney.  Paradoxically, it both subtle and penetrating with a hint of smokiness in the finish.  Not an opulent New World-style of Chardonnay, this one is cutting, invigorating and refined.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 24, 2020