The limestone in the soil of southern Beaujolais gives the name Pierres Dorées (‘golden rocks’) to the area. A company that knows a thing or two about Pinot Noir, Maison Latour has planted about 20ha of the grape there, and the wine it produces gets better with every vintage. The 2018, the best to date, displays a bright minerality. Ripe yet firm, it also paradoxically conveys a lovely austerity and even a welcome hint of bitterness in the finish. It’s another excellent choice for steak and chips or similarly simple fare.