Aptly named, as this leading Volnay-based estate has 1ha of vines, almost 10% of its estate, planted to Passe-tout-grains, some older than 90 years. This organic, biodynamic domaine typically uses equal amounts of Pinot Noir and Gamay with wild yeast to make this truly exceptional wine. More substantial and complex than you’d expect of this appellation, it delivers raspberry-like nuances with spicy savoury notes. It fits my definition of Burgundy: flavour without weight.