($38, Louis Dressner Selections):  Manzoni Bianco is one of Italy’s botanical “crosses,” in this case a cross of Riesling and Chardonnay, made by Luigi Manzoni in the 1920s and 30s, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014).  Though this grape is difficult to grow, some producers, thankfully, persevere with it.  Foradori’s is simply captivating.  One whiff and the initial taste pulls you in because its spicy salinity is deliciously refreshing.  Not monotonous, it delivers floral aromas and a white pepper-like bite.  Though this wine will cut through most any food, it is not aggressive — just enlivening.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2019