($25, Vineyard Brands):  A historic estate founded in the mid-18th century by Giovan Battista Burlotto, Comm. G. B. Burlotto remains one of Piedmont’s top and most reliable producers.  (The Comm. stands for il Commandatore.)  The grape is Pelaverga Piccolo (a.k.a. Pelaverga di Verduno) because it is almost exclusive to the commune of Verduno, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014). Almost extinct with only 7.5 acres planted in 1987, Pelaverga is now planted on a whopping 30 acres, according to D’Agata.  After tasting and then drinking this wine, I’m hoping for more.  This light to mid-weight red combines delicate red berry-like fruitiness with an all-spice kick.  The relative absence of tannins makes it perfect for summertime drinking, even chilled, to accompany a light pasta dish or a grilled veal chop.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2019