($20):  Irancy, a small red wine appellation in northern Burgundy, near Chablis, is a name to remember.  Its northern locale has meant lean and angular wines in the past because Pinot Noir was tough to ripen.  But climate change in general and the wonderfully warm 2015 vintage means it’s time to take another look at this under-the-radar area.  Simonnet-Febvre, a top Chablis producer, fashioned a balanced Irancy in 2015, focusing on the mineral side of Pinot Noir as opposed to its fruity aspect.  A pleasant touch of bitter cherry-like flavor appears in the finish.  Don’t expect opulence in this wine, but its firm edge makes it a lovely match for marinated grilled chicken.
89 Michael Apstein Aug 13, 2019