($13, Vintage ’59 Imports):  Claude Branger along with his wife, Thérèse, and son, Sébastien, run this family property, also known as Domaine Haut Févrie.  They are an exceptional team, insisting on hand harvesting, which is unusual in Muscadet, and committed to converting fully to organic production.  They make a range of Muscadet, from this one blended from a variety of vineyards, to more substantial ones from individual plots.  This is an excellent and well-priced introduction to their style. It delivers unusual — for Muscadet — concentration and a flinty quality without sacrificing the vibrant and lively signature of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie.  It’s another fine choice for August’s heat and humidity.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2018