($50):  An extraordinary wine from an obscure area, the Domaine du Closel’s Savennières is thrilling in the best sense of the word.  Thrilling because you don’t expect it.  As in, where did this come from and why haven’t I heard about these wines?  Well, Savennières is a tiny appellation in Loire that produces some grand dry white wines from Chenin Blanc, but has limited visibility and availability.  The wines, in the best producers’ hands, such as Domaine du Closel, are extraordinary and worth the effort to find them.  This one, for example, delivers power and weight, without a trace of heaviness (nor any oak) with elegance and persistence.  Focused and mineral-y, it expands on the palate and seemingly lasts forever.  This is definitely not a frilly Chenin Blanc-based wine for sipping on the patio in the summer.  It calls for a regal meal because it’s a regal wine.  Think of it as a Le Montrachet equivalent at a tenth the price.
97 Michael Apstein Apr 24, 2018