($55, Louis Latour USA): Village Burgundians, those wines made from vineyards that are not classified as Premier or Grand Cru, are often overlooked. Burgundy collectors typically scramble to buy the wines from those more revered appellations. Wise consumers, however, should look for village wines from top growers or négociants, such as this one. This is a stunning village Gevrey-Chambertin, delivering the earthy leather-like savory component for which Gevrey-Chambertin is revered. It has the density of the 2012 vintage, bright acidity and supple tannins, which means it’s a delight to drink now. Serve it with a simple main course, such as a pan-seared steak, to let the complexity of the wine envelope you.
91 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2016