($27): Puglia’s Nero di Troia grape is a hidden gem. Another ancient export from Greece, Nero di Troia (Black from Troy) delivers a winsome combination of fruit and earth when handled correctly, as in this case. Masseria San Magno’s has an enticing, gamey nuance and a vivacity that balances its black-fruit footprint. Despite its mild-ish tannins that allow for current consumption, it’s not a wine to sip by itself. It’s best uncorked and poured next to a pasta with a tomato and sausage sauce or other hearty fare. 91 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2016