($28): It gets more and more difficult to find affordable Burgundy.  One needs to venture outside of the major villages of the Côte d’Or, or as in this case, to Mercury, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise.  Here the fruity side of Pinot Noir takes on a lovely stony austerity — a complete contrast to New World wine made from the variety.  The Domaine de Suremain, one of Mercurey’s leading producers, rarely fails to deliver, which is why this “simple” village wine from 2013 is easy to recommend.  Firmness balances and, indeed, enhances the wine’s bright cherry-like fruitiness.  Mild tannins make it ideal for current consumption with anything from roasted salmon to a roast chicken. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 23, 2016