($23): This sparkling wine from François Pinon, one of the leading producers in Vouvray, dazzles with its mineraly chalky signature. The limestone and flint soil gives it real character and structure.  It conveys a pleasing firmness without being aggressive because the inherent fruitiness of Chenin Blanc balances its moderate fizziness.  Lending to harmony is use of a local traditional method of making sparkling wine:  Corking the bottle before the primary fermentation has been completed so the yeast still have a touch of sugar to ferment, in contrast to the method in Champagne in which a full secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 21, 2015