($60, Henriot, Inc.): The Vaulorent vineyard is the only premier cru vineyard that sits on the so-called Grand Cru hill of Chablis and is adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyards. Wines from this vineyard are frequently sold under the more recognized vineyard name, Fourchaume. Fevre, one of Chablis’s best producers opts to keep the wine separate from other parcels in the greater Fourchaume vineyard and bottle it separately because they feel it’s distinctive. And it is. It delivers a nearly endless stream of flinty or stony, somewhat smoky flavors. Pure and precise, it has great depth, but remains taut and lean — a marvelous combination. Grilled swordfish, anyone?
93 Michael Apstein Mar 18, 2014