($20, Advantage International): A Cru Bourgeois, which is a classification level just under the Cru Classé, Château Lestage Simon is an excellent example of what Bordeaux does very well. It balances plenty lush fruit flavors (a predominance of Merlot speaking) with hints of savory notes and a lovely austerity. Open it a few hours before you plan to drink it with a succulent steak or leave it in the cellar for a couple of years to allow the tannins to mellow. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 11, 2014