($11, Polaner Selections): A small appellation between a lake and the Loire River, Côtes de Grandlieu is a much smaller and less well known subregion of Muscadet compared to Sèvre et Maine. Its location between two bodies of water entails a slightly warmer climate and explains why the wines tend to be just a touch riper than most Muscadet. This one certainly is. But it is still bracing and lively, as though someone added a squirt of lime. Vibrant and refreshing, it would perk up a plate of oysters. And look at the price! 89 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012