($19, Frederick Wildman): I love the range of Potel-Aviron’s 2009 Beaujolais. They are ripe and precise across the board. This Chénas, perhaps the least well-known Beaujolais cru, has plenty of verve to balance the explosive fruit. Plumy undertones and a hint of earthiness come together beautifully. Showing well now, it actually should develop more complexity with another couple of years in the bottle. It delivers far more than the price tag suggests. 92 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012