($16, Martine Wines): Métaireau is one of Muscadet’s best and most consistent producers. And this wine reflects his considerable talents. With an unusual ripeness for Muscadet, it still delivers a bracing Granny Smith apple-like vibrancy typical of the appellation. Mineraly and long, it shows that Muscadet can produce wines with considerable complexity. It’s a great choice for grilled fish, sushi, or shellfish. And what a bargain! 90 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2012