($11, Jean-Christophe Calvet Selection, Aquitaine Wine USA): This wine is a superb example of why it pays to listen to knowledgeable retailers or sommeliers. I had never heard of the IGP, Cité de Carcassonne, let along Domaine Laroque, an estate that specializes in Cabernet Franc, not one of the mainstay grapes of the south of France. (Indication Géographique Protégée, the new category that under EU regulations replaces Vin de Pays in France). But Bob Harkey of Harkey’s Fine Wines in Millis, Massachusetts, a suburb of Boston, insisted I try it because in his words, “It’s the best Cabernet Franc for the price.” He’s right. Cabernet Franc can have unappealing vegetal flavors if the grapes do not achieve perfect ripeness. But when they do, it can make a marvelous wine. Chateau Cheval Blanc, made mostly from Cabernet Franc, springs to mind. Now Domaine Laroque is no Cheval Blanc, but for $11 bucks, it has an unbeatable combination of ripe fruit, earthy leafy notes and plush tannins–and not a trace of vegetal flavors. Buy it by the case. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 2, 2012