($40, USA Wine West):  One of the exciting things about the Vin de Pays wines is the flexibility the producer has compared to the rigid regulations of an Appellation d’origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine.  With Cigalus, Gérard Bertrand has made the unconventional blend of Chardonnay (80%), Viognier (15%) and Sauvignon Blanc that works to create a stylish white wine.  Each varietal speaks, but none dominates.  Floral notes from Viognier merge with the richness of Chardonnay and a healthy, but not overpowering, dose of toasty new oak.  The pungency and bracing acidity or Sauvignon Blanc keeps it lively throughout a meal.  It’s a wine for drinking, not just tasting. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 14, 2012