($70, Vintus):  Quarts de Chaume, a tiny appellation in the Loire Valley, is capable of producing extraordinary sweet wines from the Chenin Blanc grape.  Florent Baumard believes that the hallmark of the 2008 vintage is an uplifting acidity in the wines.  And of course, it’s the vibrancy and verve, not the sweetness, by which these kinds of wines should be judged.  Paradoxically, Baumard’s 2008 Quarts de Chaume delivers honeyed richness yet dances across the palate.  It’s a lacey wine that leaves you wondering where all the lushness came from.  Although Quarts de Chaume is a classic match for foie gras and other rich patés, it works exceptionally well with pungent or sharp cheeses, or as a counterpoint to highly spiced Chinese fare, or by itself as dessert.
2008 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012